Manuel Antonio is one of Costa Rica's most popular destinations, no wonder, since dense rainforest meets dreamy beaches right here. The national park of the same name is small but incredibly species-rich: I had my best wildlife sightings of the whole trip here, from sloths to curious capuchin monkeys.
Pack everything away securely in the national park, the monkeys are known for stealing food and personal belongings.
From Santa Teresa I continued via Playa Herradura/Jacó: bus to Playa Herradura (6–7 hrs), a short taxi to Jacó (about 8 min, €10–13) and from there another bus to Manuel Antonio (about 4 hrs). With waiting times I was traveling for a total of 10–12 hours, for around €40. Alternatively there's a route via the Paquera–Puntarenas ferry and then by bus via Quepos (6–8 hrs, about $20–30).
I stayed at Teva Jungle Hotel, right in the middle of a 20-hectare stretch of untouched forest. For about €50 a night I got friendly staff, a beautiful, extraordinary property and a pool with a view of the jungle, plus wild toucans and monkeys right outside the door. The only downside: you need the bus for the beach, supermarket and everything else, since the location is a bit remote.
Right in front of the national park and great for swimming, surfing and stand-up paddling, plus food trucks with Mexican snacks right on the beach.
Located inside the national park itself and, for me, one of the most beautiful beaches in Costa Rica, fine white sand, calm turquoise water and, with a bit of luck, monkeys and iguanas in the trees. Since there are no restaurants or stands here, it's worth bringing enough water and snacks.
Breakfast with a view of the rainforest, surrounded by wild monkeys, the Moroccan-Latin American fusion cuisine and the extensive weekend brunch were a real highlight.
On the beaches around Manuel Antonio there are numerous food trucks and stands with fresh fruit, coconuts and Mexican tacos.
Manuel Antonio National Park (daily 7am–6pm, closed Tuesdays, entry $18 or $6 for children, book tickets online in advance) is the must-do, well-maintained trails lead to viewpoints and secluded beaches, along the way you're guaranteed to run into monkeys and iguanas. Bringing food is banned in the park, bags are checked at the entrance.
A catamaran tour along the coast is highly recommended, with dolphin watching, snorkeling and lunch on board.
A mangrove boat tour through the Damas Islands, where I saw sloths and crocodiles up close.