Cuba's best-known beach region on the narrow Hicacos Peninsula, with over 20 kilometers of white sandy beach and turquoise water along the Atlantic coast, noticeably more touristy than the rest of the country.
From Havana I booked the trip to Varadero through the provider Gaviota directly at Hotel Manzana in Havana, a taxi got me there in around 2.5 hours. Cheaper options are shared taxis or coach buses (around $25 per person, mornings between 8 and 11:30am), a private taxi costs around $90. The VIAZUL bus is the cheapest, but tickets are often sold out a day ahead. My tip from a slightly annoying personal experience: check the departure time on your return ticket carefully, mine had the wrong time noted, I missed the bus and had to spontaneously arrange a taxi for $90. The refund was complicated too, since card machines for that are rare in Cuba. There's also a passport check along the way, the peninsula isn't freely accessible to locals without a residence or job there.
Quietly located yet still central, €40 a night including a tasty, affordable breakfast. The hosts were very friendly and helpful, I had nothing to complain about at this place.
If you'd rather have an all-inclusive resort right on the beach, you'll find plenty of international hotel chains along the peninsula, though they feel much more impersonal than a casa or hostel.
Runs along the entire Hicacos Peninsula and is one of Cuba's most beautiful beaches: fine, white sand and crystal-clear, turquoise water. The northern section is more touristy with hotels, bars and water sports, further south it gets quieter.
I unfortunately had no luck snorkeling right off the beach during my visit, but a sunset walk or an evening beach picnic is pretty much mandatory.
Cuban classics and international dishes in a cozy atmosphere.
Recommended for evening cocktails.
Worth a stroll for fresh ingredients, souvenirs and handicrafts, these markets on Avenida 1ra, best early in the morning before the best pieces are gone.
The boat trip to the island, around 30 kilometers to the south, was one of my highlights: the catamaran crossing, snorkeling stops at colorful coral reefs and lunch are usually included.
One of Cuba's best-known cenotes, around 11 kilometers away, is worth the trip, crystal-clear water for swimming, though quite deep in places, so be careful.
If you feel like getting creative, you can take a ceramics class on Avenida 1 or buy handmade pieces.