An agricultural valley in western Cuba, known for tobacco growing and the striking limestone hills (mogotes) that define the landscape, a relaxed small-town feel and a starting point for trips to some of Cuba's most beautiful beaches.
The best place to buy cigars is at hotels or cigar shops (from around $8) or directly at a tobacco plantation, like I did for around $4 apiece, quality at street stalls is usually poor despite the $1 price. Rum like Santiago de Cuba or Havana Club is noticeably cheaper at the supermarket (around $21) than in tourist shops.
From Havana I took a shared taxi (colectivo) to Viñales, a shared vintage-car taxi with three other travelers, for around $25 per person and a beautiful, roughly 2.5-hour drive through fields, palm groves and small villages. Alternatively there are private taxis (around $90) or the cheaper VIAZUL bus, though you should book early enough since seats sell out fast.
Thoroughly impressed: a quiet yet central location with a dreamy view of the mogotes, warm hosts, a beautiful rooftop terrace and really good food (breakfast $5, dinner $10 per person, fresh and varied every day).
Verdict: I'd stay there again any time.
Nicely and modernly furnished with a good breakfast, though there were discrepancies in the breakfast billing, and the host responded poorly to a neutral review, so I can only recommend it with reservations.
Even though Viñales itself isn't on the coast, this was the most beautiful beach of my entire Cuba trip: fine, white sand, crystal-clear water and, despite its beauty, hardly crowded, around 1.5 hours away by car (I got there in a classic blue vintage car that picked up more travelers along the way).
A bit quieter and more untouched, a small island around 2 hours away: by car to Palma Rubia, then a 30-minute ferry ride. There's barely any tourist infrastructure here, but some of Cuba's most beautiful coral reefs for snorkeling and diving.
Cuban and international cuisine, often with live music in the evening.
At the end of Calle Sergio Dopico, this restaurant serves traditional dishes with fresh, local ingredients and offers a fantastic view over the valley, especially at sunset.
For me one of the most authentic experiences in Cuba: around six hours including a visit to a plantation (tobacco, honey, coffee), a walk through the fields, two cave visits and a cigar-rolling demonstration with tasting, traditionally with a drop of honey on the mouthpiece.
The effort of the climb, on foot, along the road or by taxi, is definitely worth it, the view of the mogotes is grand.
I found this rather overrated, the entry price isn't a great match for the experience.
A lovely, unexpected experience was an evening at the small village church, salsa music blaring from the neighboring building, and locals invited us straight in to dance.